The New Orleans Jitterbug

If New Orleans is not fully in the mainstream of culture, neither is it fully in the mainstream of time. Lacking a well-defined present, it lives somewhere between its past and its future, as if uncertain whether to advance or to retreat. Perhaps it is its perpetual ambivalence that is its secret charm. Somewhere between Preservation Hall and the Superdome, between voodoo and cybernetics, New Orleans listens eagerly to the seductive promises of the future but keeps at least one foot firmly planted in its history, and in the end, conforms, like an artist, not to the world but to its own inner being–ever mindful of its personal style.

Louisiana in September was like an obscene phone call from nature. The air–moist, sultry, secretive, and far from fresh–felt as if it were being exhaled into one’s face. Sometimes it even sounded like heavy breathing. Honeysuckle, swamp flowers, magnolia, and the mystery smell of the river scented the atmosphere, amplifying the intrusion of organic sleaze. It was aphrodisiac and repressive, soft and violent at the same time. In New Orleans, in the French Quarter, miles from the barking lungs of alligators, the air maintained this quality of breath, although here it acquired a tinge of metallic halitosis, due to fumes expelled by tourist buses, trucks delivering Dixie beer, and, on Decatur Street, a mass-transit motor coach named Desire.

The minute you land in New Orleans, something wet and dark leaps on you and starts humping you like a swamp dog in heat, and the only way to get that aspect of New Orleans off you is to eat it off. That means beignets and crayfish bisque and jambalaya, it means shrimp remoulade, pecan pie, and red beans with rice, it means elegant pompano au papillote, funky file z’herbes, and raw oysters by the dozen, it means grillades for breakfast, a po’ boy with chowchow at bedtime, and tubs of gumbo in between. It is not unusual for a visitor to the city to gain fifteen pounds in a week–yet the alternative is a whole lot worse. If you don’t eat day and night, if you don’t constantly funnel the indigenous flavors into your bloodstream, then the mystery beast will go right on humping you, and you will feel its sordid presence rubbing against you long after you have left town. In fact, like any sex offender, it can leave permanent psychological scars.

– Tom Robbins, Jitterbug Perfume.

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“Fetish”

It’s always amazing the things I find when I am doing other research. Much has been written about voodoo in New Orleans, whether through books or scholarly articles. In my first lecture on the Mascot I had Veronica Russell read an article from the Mascot regarding voodoo (she complained in the second lecture when she couldn’t read it, but was happy with the one I gave her about the female prisoner disguised as a man).

Here is an article I found in the Times Picayune (known then as the Daily Picayune) when I was researching another subject. It’s from June 24, 1875.

“FETISH”

Its Worship and Worshipers

Their Customs and Rites.

Voudous and Voudouism

For years and years – in fact as far back as the time of the Spanish possession – the voudon or fetish worship of heathen Africa has held no mean place in the minds of a large class of our citizens. The worship is that of the devil, which is that of the “fetish” in Africa, and was first introduced here by the slavers who in the olden time with their human cargoes found refuge in the dark lagoons and swamps of Louisiana. It is a belief that the devil has supreme power to punish and that annually he has to be propitiated with a gift and festival to be held in his honor. At the sametime it is necessary to dance away the demon, and when he is summoned by the songs of the believers by a sudden rush into cold water he is ejected and the sin of the year completely washed away with him.

The believers are of course

Heathen,

and indulge in the wildest orgies, such as the imagination can hardly picture, and which, strange to say, are believed in by a large number of our ignorant creole negroes, who fear that the “wudo” will charm them, and by weird spells throw them into sickness and subsequent death.

Formerly the bestial performances used to take place within the city limits, down in what was then known as the Old Faubourg Treme, back of Rampart street and the Old Basin, but an ordinance having been passed on the subject, the police succeeded in supressing these, since which time the annual festival only has been held, and that on the lakeshore, between Bayous St. John and La Salle.

The worshippers in this faith believe mainly in

Voudon Charms,

which are generally manufactured by the Queen of the sect, and are composed of lizards’ eggs, old pounded brick and various vegetable condiments, some of an agreeable and others of a disagreeable odor. These are placed near the person to be bewitched, and will, it is stated, cause death, illness or anything, in fact, that the mind of the fetish Queen chooses. They can also manufacture love powder, or, in fact, anything that any one is willing to pay for and believe in. There are now about three hundred Voudons in our city, presided over by a Queen, who is elected annually, and amongst whom are numbered, strane to relate, at least eight or ten white women, who participate with the others in the hellish orgies. Outside of these “firm ones” there are about a thousand more who, while ashamed to openly acknowledge their belief, secretly have faith and can be found practicing its tenets. The belief is one of fear, and it is this, in fact, that drives many of this latter class to admit their participation.

Desirous of finding someone who might be enabled to give some idea of the real staus of the creed, our reporter yesterday searched out

Marie Lafont, the Ancient Queen,

and asked her relative to the present condition of the society. He found her in a low hovel on St. Ann street situated back in the yard, and overgrown with vines. In a low room, with the sides whitewashed and stained with wet, here and there a box or bundle, in one corner a table, with rude images and drugs in vials and packages. Opposite the bed, tumbled as if but lately occupied, and seated in a chair, just in the rear, under a little trellis of covering vine was the figure of what had once been a tall, powerful woman, but who was now bent with age and infirmity. Her complexion a dark bronze and her hair grizzled back, while her trembling hand was supported by a small crooked stick. Her gown, of plain dark calico, was neatly fastened with a dark brooch, and her hair was partially covered by a handkerchief.

A kindly smile and –

“Bon jour, Monsieur.”

“Bon jour, Mamma Marie.”

And so the conversation opened. She had been infirm for years – two at least – and could hardly move from her home.

“Ah! no, Monsieur, I am no Voudon now; I am a believer in the holy faith;” and she kissed a small cross which she had in her hand.

“Well, Mamma, you can tell me something of them, can you not!”

“Not much, now, Monsieur. Last year I was not there; this year Eliza, a black woman, was the Queen. She lives on the lake shore, way beyond Milneburg. It is a bad thing – a very bad thing.”

After a litte conversation in which it was elicited that she had no more belief in the faith, and the the principal portion of the voudou worshippers were negroes, though there were some white, it was understood that of late years the faith had somewhat degenerated, though it was still extensively practiced.

It used to be the custom, also, long ago, to sacrifice little “picaninnies;” but, of late years, the law was too strong and the people too poor to do this, and they had to be satisfied with a chicken, which was tossed into the pot, feathers and all, alive, and which, with the other ingredients, formed a sort of stew, which, if the faithful drank kept them from the evil eye for a year.

This was all, or at least all the statement that she would make, and we departed.

From this it would appear the glory of the thing had much departed; as, indeed, it was but last night determined the rites should be again resumed, and a license was obtained from the authorities.

Numbers, in spite of the weather, were out and quite a time was had, though owing [sic] to the lateness of the hour a full description had to be postponed.”

 

*The reporter is likely refeering to Marie Laveau, the voodoo priestess who died six years later at the age of 80. Her fame was so widespread that even the New York Times work a lengthly obitatury on her, honoring her as a “wonderful woman.” Whether the reporter actually met her or not could be debatable. But real or not, it is an interesting glimpse into whites’ perception of voodoo during this time.

The event the reporter is describing is St. John’s Eve, which occurs on (depending) June 23rd or 24th. It is still practiced in New Orleans to this day.

 

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Clean Slate

It’s a new year, and for me that means more lists and more goals.

I don’t like to call them “resolutions” – that word implies intentions – and it always reminds me of the famous quote, “The road to hell is paved with good intentions.” I prefer goals instead because it seems like a much more clear objective. I take my lists fairly seriously and refer back to them throughout the year. I don’t think a day or two goes by (although I would like it to) that I am not writing out some sort of a list. It’s the only way I can sort things in my head. Typically, I have a scrap of paper in my car and scribble a “to-do list” at stoplights on the way to work. It’s not because I am uber organized, it’s because I am easily distracted. My mind wanders. My brain, without proper motivation, gravitates toward the fanciful and erotic, and disappears in backward nostalgia and forward daydreams. Sometimes lists are the only way I can exist.

But instead of a list, I started the new year with a clean slate. Literally.

Early last year, I found this old chalkboard at the Preservation Salvage Store in St. Roch. Honestly, they tend to be overpriced. It’s shocking to me that they will try to sell a beat up old particle board cabinet for $75. Some of their prices are actually reasonable but in general it makes me feel savage instead of salvage. I prefer the Green Project, where I find a lot of my wood, supplies and the occasional odd furniture item, but since the PSS is right next door, I stop by because it’s convenient. The chalkboard was actually fairly priced and I snatched it up even though I was not certain it would fit in my house.

It was from the old New Orleans Center for Creative Arts (NOCCA) that was located on Perrier Street in an old elementary school. In 2000 NOCCA moved to a gorgeous building in the Marginy. If I was a child living in New Orleans, NOCCA is where I would want to go to school.

I lugged the chalkboard home and set it up in my entryway, envisioning it in a wide-open downtown loft that I do not own. I kept it there for awhile, just feeling it out, giving it a chance. After a month, I decided that yes, it belonged in my home, I moved some of my art around to make it more at home.

My friends’ daughter was the first to christen it with an elaborate Easter design. After a couple of weeks, I erased it and started over.

Many dinner parties and get-togethers later, people left messages, drew pictures, wrote notes, or proclaimed strong opinions.

Names, glorious names!

A shout-out to Rosser!

I don't even know who wrote this - very sweet.

It is also a part of Louis’s routine whenever he comes to visit. The first thing he does is pick up a piece of chalk and doodle whatever his young mind needs to express. The second thing he does it suck on the chalk. And then after rubbing the wet chalk all over himself, he heads for my piano. It’s his ritual and I respect it.

Master at work

Lots of handiwork

I am sad to see many of these wonderful messages and drawings go, but I need to make way for the new year and can only hope my chalkboard will be filled in the coming months with more cheer and offbeat sagacity from friends new and old.

From some cute French girls who stayed with me this summer.

This is from a variety of events

From Amy's Engagement/Sushi Party

In this society of permanence, it’s comforting to still cherish something ephemeral. It reminds me how easy it is for everything to be wiped away – literally and metaphorically. And how crucial it is to cherish the moment (as Hallmarky as that sounds). I’ve witnessed friends and family members go through loss this year and the most painful concept was the idea that nothing is guaranteed. And sometimes, for better or for worse, timing is everything. All you can do is plan and pray – everything else just kinda happens. This “religion” I’ve adopted of cause and effect doesn’t stop me from writing my lists and my goals on a daily basis but reminds me to not discount the moment that occurs when I am working toward another.

Still, even with the beauty of transiency… I had to document my chalkboard.

Here’s to a clean slate. Happy New Year!

 

 

 

 

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Original Ornaments!

One of the new items I’m making and selling at art markets this year is magnetic photo ornaments.  They are similar to the ornaments I’ve sold in past years where the photo was glued in, but now they are attached by a magnet.  This way, when you put your ornaments away after the holidays are over, you can just pop the photo off and put it on your fridge or wherever, to enjoy year round! You can even mix and match.

All of the ornaments are approximately three inches in diameter and are individually hand-cast and colored. They are made of resin and are transparent, which really makes the colors pop next to your Christmas tree lights.

"Optimism" as an ornament

And here is how it pops out!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have ornaments with many different photographs of mine and in a variety of different colors.  They are $6 each or 5 for $25.  Come check them out….they make great stocking stuffers!

And you can view a few more samples on my Facebook Page.

So I’ve got two more markets left this year:

TODAY, December 8, at Freret Market‘s annual Freretstivus market, noon to 5 at the corner of Napoleon and Freret.

And next weekend, both Saturday and Sunday (Dec. 15-16) at the Arts Council of New Orleans’ Arts Market, from 10am to 4pm.

Both markets have great music, great food, and great art….I know I’ll be doing some Christmas shopping at them.  I hope to see you out there – look for the red tent!

Happy Holidays!

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A spoon full of scholarship

Today is my last day of class for the year. I still have final research papers to complete but… first year down. No pause for reflection, I will figure that out later.

Although this may be premature I am going to state that Drew Gilpin Faust is my favorite historian. I read James Henry Hammond and the Old South for school. I am reading This Republic of Suffering: Death and the American Civil War and I have Mothers of Invention: Women of the Slaveholding South all lined up in my queue (aka nightstand).

Faust embodies the perfect prescription for scholarship. 1/3 Narrative (stories, gossip), 1/3 theory, and 1/3 statistics. Her seamless narrative is dashed with facts and wrapped in historiography.  It’s what I strive to do in all of my work.

I can’t wait for this semester and all of the art markets to be over so I can spend some time just reading, thinking, and writing. Breathing. Having fun that doesn’t come with guilt.

Deep breath – here goes my head buried deeper in the sand for the next two weeks… And Faust as my shining light.

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The definition of disappointment

After searching in the docket books for over an hour to find this...

 

I find this an hour later. DAMN!

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Lucky 33

Last Monday afternoon before class, I got a call from Ruth Laney, who interviewed me for Country Roads Magazine. She said that a gentleman just called and said he read the article about me and had an original copy of the Mascot to give me! Not wanting to give him my information (thank you, Ruth) she gave me his phone number to contact him.

Standing outside of my classroom, I called Mr. Marchiafava. He said he read my story just that morning and felt compelled to contact me and give me his copy of the Mascot.

Mr. Marchiafava is from New Orleans. His father used to own a restaurant on Decatur Street. In 1972, he was renovating an house in Old Algiers Point on Olivier Street. As they were tearing out the walls, they realized that the house had been insulated with old newspapers! The majority of them were all crumpled and torn, except for one. A newspaper he did not recognize – the Mascot. For some reason he saved it. He slipped it in wax paper and put it between his mattress and box spring where it had been for the last forty years until that afternoon. As soon as he read my story he picked up his rotary phone (computers are also not his style) and phoned Ruth.

We talked for quite a bit about our love of New Orleans and history. I thanked him profusely for his copy of the Mascot and he said he wanted only one thing in return – a mention in my book. Done!

He told me he was also going to send me a copy of a book and to check page 33. He likes to gamble and 33 is his lucky number. Mr. Marchiafava also said that he felt that I was a good gamble. Thank you; I certainly hope I am.

I wasn’t sure what to expect, but the next day a package arrived at my office and true to his word, there was a copy of the Mascot – December 1, 1894. Torn in some places but still beautiful to behold! My very first Mascot!!! Included was a book from 1922 called “Etiquette Problems in Picture” with a lovely note on page 33.

I also fully intend to stay true to my word. I promise, Mr. Marchiafava you will get a mention in my book. But I figured why not start with a blog entry? Thank you so much. Your gift is inspiring and humbling.

THANK YOU!

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Click “Like” Article

An interesting article Trixie sent me from the Chronicle of Higher Education about being an academic.

I especially liked reading the comments.

PLEASE CLICK ‘LIKE’ by Rachel Toor.

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Mrs. Halloween

For the last few years I have made it a point to stop by the home on St. Charles at State Street to take pictures of their amazing Halloween decorations.


Last year I met the owner, Louellen Berger, who graciously let me in her yard for a better view. I emailed her this year asking if I could come and get photos of her latest masterpiece. She told me – of course.


As she was showing me around and describing her skeletal labors of love, I decided that I wanted to write my first article for the New Wave about her. I figured I would interview her to be on the safe side, and pitch it to the Tulane newspaper later that day. They went for it!

With only a 300-word limit, many things got left out, so here are some more behind-the-scenes tips of what goes into creating this…

It takes two whole days for her to set up. After that workers come in with the lights.

Under their costumes, all of the skeletons are the same.

The most elaborate one is Annie’s “Yorkshire Scarier.” It too was built from the same skeleton as all the others. Her son came up with the name after his own terrier was running around the yard.

Harry Potter was one of the most difficult to display.

When she started decorating her home about eight years ago, she began with Lazy Bones and the Lady in the Tree but they did not have names. The Thinker followed the next year.

TromBONE Shorty is one of the new ones this year – and is modeled after his actual pose in an issue of St. Charles Magazine.

And yes, Louellen is extremely gracious and imaginative – I hope that comes across in the article.

Here is the ARTICLE in the New Wave.

And a nice little shout-out in the Uptown Messenger.

I am glad I got to do a little something about this wonderful home that enchants so many New Orleanians (myself included).

HAPPY HALLOWEEN! 

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Country Roads Magazine

A few weeks ago I mentioned that Country Roads Magazine ran an article about my work in their October issue.  Here is an image from the print edition:

The print version showcases a lot more of the photos from the Mascot. Of course, it also shows me at 11:00 PM on a school night in a coffee bar in Baton Rouge. That was quite an adventure!

Here is the article!

 The Thrill of the Hunt – Country Roads Magazine, Oct. 2012 

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